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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone!
I'm just wondering why there are no aftermarket Turbo kits for our NA 2.0 Engine? It seems ripe for it. Decent displacement, and under powered, so perfect for modding this way. I've been scouring the web for either universal parts to make it work, or a kit, and haven't really found either. Has anyone else gotten lucky and either found a kit, or culled together parts to make this magic happen?

Regards,

Striker
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply Tanveer! I'd seen that stuff at Carid, but not being a mechanic, am not sure what would work, fit, how it would mount, etc. Barring a mechanic getting on here telling us what to get to make this work, I guess I'm better off waiting until there's an actual kit designed to work with the CHR.

Let's keep this thread going though, if anyone finds anything regarding super chargers, turbo chargers, or other reliable, and tested performance enhancers (typing that cracked me up!), please post them here.

Thanks,

Silver
 

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No worries, Striker

So it appears they make these turbos/superchargers for BRZ and FRS. I am hoping they will bring something to market for CHR as well.
 

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A turbo for the chr USA model is useless because of the CVT transmission no matter how much horsepower you put to that CVT it's only going to allow what the computer let's it to the wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Shaggy,
Really? If that's so, it's a huge letdown. So if we were to add either Super or Turbochargers, we'd see zero improvement in acceleration, power and performance? It seems like someone just needs to come out with tweaked programming for the CVT no? Do you have a solid link to share on this kind of information? I'd love to edify myself. I appreciate your reply!

Thanks,

Striker
 

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First, I doubt the CVT used in our cars will handle any significant increase in horsepower. If you understand how CVTs operate, you'll understand why. CVTs don't have actual gears and are only built for fuel economy. The only exception is the CVT used in the new Corolla HB which has a physical 1st gear.

Second, it's not simple to just throw a turbo onto any engine. You have to make sure the engine internals are built to handle forced induction. Many times, the compression ratio of a forced induction engine is lowered compared to a naturally aspirated one. Also, you have to see if any of the cast parts such as the piston, connecting rod, and crank are strong enough to deal with the increased stresses from forced induction. I highly doubt there are any forged internals used in this motor.

Third, fueling and mapping. Unless you have access to a dyno or find some tuner which will spend the time to create a proper map for this engine using forced induction, you're wasting your time.

I don't want to sound callous, but if you wanted a performance car, you should have purchased one from the beginning. If you look at my list of gripes about this car in another thread, I bring up the poor choice of engine by Toyota for this platform. Especially since the chassis is so good handling wise and will support tons of power as evidenced by a tuner who converted a C-HR into rear wheel drive and threw in a turbo 4 producing 600 HP. If you have any notion of trying this, you better have a big bank account. And after all the money that is spent, you'd be further ahead by buying a car with the performance from the factory as stock. I've done tons of modding in my past. I learned a lot about cars doing this. I modd'ed a 94 Z24 with the 60 degree V6. 1.6 ratio Crane roller rockers, Crane Compucam 2030, attempted all different kinds of performance chips, and 50 shot of dry spray nitrous. While it was kind of fun building an absolute sleeper, as I got older I recognize how much money I wasted in building up that car. My next cars were a 94 Z28 with the 350 small block Chevy LT1 motor and now with my 13 BMW 135i. My 19 C-HR's engine remains unmolested and will stay so as it's not worth the aggravation or the possible reduction in reliability. If someone does a flash tune or some sort of piggy back tune which I can see an actual dyno chart on along with a few real world testimonials, I would consider it. Tearing into the motor? No thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the sobering facts Zx10guy. Consider me duly enlightened.

Striker
 

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No worries. Glad you didn't take my post the wrong way. I understand the lure of modding cars. As I've said, I had done so in the past. I'm just imparting my own experience and knowledge so you don't make the financial mistakes I did. Because my modding didn't have some major blow ups (literally). I blew up two motors in my 94 Z24 due to nitrous. The first time was with a NOS fogger system which we all think to this day, the cracked piston in cylinder one was due to a manufacturing defect. All the other pistons were pristine. The defect probably would have never surfaced under normal operating conditions. But the nitrous just sent it over the edge. The second mishap was using a Top Gun fogger system. Top Gun believed in not using filters inline with the nitrous feed line. Well with my luck, the nitrous solenoid jammed open feeding straight nitrous into the engine when I got off full throttle. That toasted pretty much all of the cylinders. I even had a nice back fire when I tried to start the car back up again and the resulting engine fire was fun too. Post mortem, we think the solenoid jammed open because some junk got into the nitrous tank during my last refill. Because there was no inline filter, the foreign matter wedged itself into the nitrous solenoid preventing it from closing. So things can go bad and you have to be ready to deal with any major catastrophes.

Also, I've learned that if you do any significant mods to a car, you better have a second vehicle in case the one being modded is down for any reason. This means you should not significantly modify a car you use as a your daily driver. One can argue doing suspension changes would be excluded, but that to me is a gray area. But with significant engine mods, yes, you need a second car.
 
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