short question. does this noise also occur when u put the gear into N while driving?
Transmission failure/replacement 2018 C-HR XLE
FYI, the transmission in my 2018 C-HR XLE has failed and was replaced (under warranty) in February 2020 with just over 36,000 miles. First indication that something was wrong was hearing a whining noise coming from the front end. If anyone else is or has experienced this problem, please let me know. I'm getting some feedback that this might be a known flaw in this vehicle... Not happy.
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Hmmm... Not sure chr-driver. I don't believe that I had ever attempted that.short question. does this noise also occur when u put the gear into N while driving?
having also since some time a humming noise, even with the gear in neutral when rolling faster.
so i wonder if the gearbox is still "connected" in N while rolling.
so i wonder if the gearbox is still "connected" in N while rolling.
It can be the differential in your trans. If there is lack of fluid service, then this can definitely impact the reliability of the differential as the same trans fluid is used to lubricate the differential as it's all one unit. Contrast this to my 135i which is a rear wheel drive vehicle that has its differential as a separate physical unit. I've also have had the differential fluid serviced with the appropriate gear oil.
And putting the trans in neutral does not disengage the differential.
And putting the trans in neutral does not disengage the differential.
vehicle has around 40k miles on it, thought its still "early" for the trans oil change 🤔It can be the differential in your trans. If there is lack of fluid service, then this can definitely impact the reliability of the differential as the same trans fluid is used to lubricate the differential as it's all one unit. Contrast this to my 135i which is a rear wheel drive vehicle that has its differential as a separate physical unit. I've also have had the differential fluid serviced with the appropriate gear oil.
And putting the trans in neutral does not disengage the differential.
I was at 36k when mine went out. Probably 2-3k before that I thought that I was hearing a whining noise that progressively got worse.
did toyota paid for you the trans?
or did you had to pay for all costs?
or did you had to pay for all costs?
I would normally think so. But if you look at the Youtube video from the Car Wizard I posted earlier, you'll see how quickly things degrade within 20k miles. I really think it depends on your driving habits, trans, and sometimes just sheer luck. I'm considering having my next trans fluid service done at around 30k miles now. Car Wizard is actually recommending once a year to do the change.vehicle has around 40k miles on it, thought its still "early" for the trans oil change 🤔
CVTs in general are just pure junk that the manufacturers have forced down on us unfortunately.
Toyota covered it all at that point since it was still under warranty. Took a coupla weeks for them to find one (this was 3? years ago) but they took care of it all. Including a loaner.
Watched the video from the russian guy.
For me it looks like only one bearing is failing.
The other ones are perfectly fine.
Doesnt seem like an oil issue, more like an undersized bearing.
For me it looks like only one bearing is failing.
The other ones are perfectly fine.
Doesnt seem like an oil issue, more like an undersized bearing.
No issues I take it? If you dont mind me asking, what was the cost and was it done at the dealer? And this was only a fluid flush and not a full service? thanks...I had the transmission fluid flushed on my 2018 XLE about a month ago. I have under 32k miles on it. I don't thrash on it at all (did research on "living with CVTs" - from a Subaru video).
What I've noticed with the CVT in this car on downhills is an odd behavior where the trans will "shift" into a lower gear bringing the revs of the engine up. I find this totally unnecessary as I actually want the car to coast downhill. It doesn't happen often but it tends to happen at certain speeds with steeper type hills.
As far as the old school using lower gears to utilize engine braking to reduce the use of the brakes, I think that's not necessary anymore and puts excessive strain on the entire drive train. Brakes on modern cars have are so much better than when downshifting to lower gears on downhills was common. The brakes are pretty decent in this car. If you're that concerned with brake fade and stopping power, switch out the factory brake fluid with one that's a higher boiling point one. I think DOT 3 is used in these cars. You can go with a DOT 4 or a DOT 5.1. And also look into using a different brake pad such as one that's ceramic based.
Back from a week of driving in the mountains. Incidental side note: I read the break-in of 621 miles and not to stay at the same speed for "extended periods", however its up to someone to interpret that. I had 300 miles on my car of normal around town driving. The next period of break-in were highway miles of varying speeds between 55-75 mph, varying over about every 30 miles. I wonder how many people even pay attention to this? I am now at 1700 miles after the road trip and considering an oil change as I intend to keep the car for a long time.....
The car overall drove really good in the mountains. The CVT actually drove better overall that a standard geared tranny. On downhill stints, I did experience the car increase the RPM as you stated, but only if I was using the cruise control. When I turned it off, it would keep the RPMs low down hill and pick up speed.
I noticed that the car maintained better constant RPMs in the mountains. Often one problem with geared transmissions is the car will constantly shift between overdrive gear and the next gear down which is not good on the tranny.
I opted to use the manual gears on extremely steep down grades where you needed to be in "gears" 2-3 on downhills. This kept the RPM in the 3-4k range which is about where it is accelerating uphill so the same "strain" on the tranny. IMO, this is better than coasting down a hill riding the brakes. You see people do that and then get down the hill and can still smell people's brakes.
You have different people chime in on the value of engine break in. I normally follow the manufacturer's recommendation of varying the RPMs during the first x number of miles. I sort of didn't do that with my 135i as I was kind of being a kid with it. First time having such a spunky fast car in such a small package. So I got carried away with my right foot on the gas pedal. Car is a 2013 and has just over 100k miles. So far no issues.
With the C-HR, I don't remember if I explicitly adhered to the varying RPMs all the time. But with the traffic in my area, it'll force you to vary the RPMs due to the congestion.
With my recently purchased 2022 BMW S1000RR, I did adhere to the strict recommendation of varying the engine RPMs with lots of engine braking to ensure the piston rings are seating correctly against the cylinder walls. In addition, BMW set a factory rev limiter at 9k RPMs to prevent you from rev'ing out the engine to redline which is I think 13,500 or 14,000 RPMs. I can't remember right now. The 9k limiter is removed by the dealer at the first service which is at 600 miles.
Others prescribe to the drive it like you stole it from day one as their engine break in method.
As to changing "gears" with the CVT to maintain a set RPM without using the brakes, my thoughts on this is it's still foolhardy as you're putting strain on the transmission. Again, CVTs don't have gears. It's one single steel belt that is wrapped around two pulleys. The pulleys have a V type valley which is formed by two independent cone halves. This forms up one pulley drive mechanism. Hydraulic pressure is used to move the two cones in and out on axis to vary the amount of spacing in the V valley. This has the effect of simulating different gears. The belt is riding on the metal surface of the cones via friction only. I'd rather smoke up my brakes versus having that stress applied to my CVT trans. Replacing a set of brake pads is much simpler and cheaper than replacing a whole transmission.
With the C-HR, I don't remember if I explicitly adhered to the varying RPMs all the time. But with the traffic in my area, it'll force you to vary the RPMs due to the congestion.
With my recently purchased 2022 BMW S1000RR, I did adhere to the strict recommendation of varying the engine RPMs with lots of engine braking to ensure the piston rings are seating correctly against the cylinder walls. In addition, BMW set a factory rev limiter at 9k RPMs to prevent you from rev'ing out the engine to redline which is I think 13,500 or 14,000 RPMs. I can't remember right now. The 9k limiter is removed by the dealer at the first service which is at 600 miles.
Others prescribe to the drive it like you stole it from day one as their engine break in method.
As to changing "gears" with the CVT to maintain a set RPM without using the brakes, my thoughts on this is it's still foolhardy as you're putting strain on the transmission. Again, CVTs don't have gears. It's one single steel belt that is wrapped around two pulleys. The pulleys have a V type valley which is formed by two independent cone halves. This forms up one pulley drive mechanism. Hydraulic pressure is used to move the two cones in and out on axis to vary the amount of spacing in the V valley. This has the effect of simulating different gears. The belt is riding on the metal surface of the cones via friction only. I'd rather smoke up my brakes versus having that stress applied to my CVT trans. Replacing a set of brake pads is much simpler and cheaper than replacing a whole transmission.
My usual auto shop doesnt do transmission fluid replacement for cars that have sealed cvt trans 
Wondering if my Toyota dealership would do it -- and if it'll basically null the warranty left.
Wondering if my Toyota dealership would do it -- and if it'll basically null the warranty left.
Then go find another shop.My usual auto shop doesnt do transmission fluid replacement for cars that have sealed cvt trans
Wondering if my Toyota dealership would do it -- and if it'll basically null the warranty left.
Your dealer will do it. Just prepared to pay through the nose for the service. If I remember correctly, the dealer quoted me around $650 for the service where as I paid just under $400 at an independent repair shop. They used a BG trans flush machine.
I had a flush done on my 2018 XLE not too long ago. About $150 for the CVT flush. No, it should not void the warranty.My usual auto shop doesnt do transmission fluid replacement for cars that have sealed cvt trans
Wondering if my Toyota dealership would do it -- and if it'll basically null the warranty left.
had my car at local toyota dealer, issue was regarding noisy old tyres
I purchased a new 2018 Toyota CHR in Washington state. I relocated to KY and drove back and forth for vacation to visit family in Washington. Fast forward to 2020, I started hearing a roaring noise that resembled wheel barring, turns out it was the transmission. I came back to Washington dealer and I was at 92,000 by this point. Lucky I had purchased extended warranty for 100,000 they fixed it, howver the adjuster only fixed a component he did not replace the torque and even the dealership disagreed with the decision. However After fixing it I traded it in the car for a Honda CRV.FYI, the transmission in my 2018 C-HR XLE has failed and was replaced (under warranty) in February 2020 with just over 36,000 miles. First indication that something was wrong was hearing a whining noise coming from the front end. If anyone else is or has experienced this problem, please let me know. I'm getting some feedback that this might be a known flaw in this vehicle... Not happy.
Since this is the larger thread about transmission issues, just putting the data point out there that I'm almost at 90,000 miles and still have zero issues with my trans on my 2019.
Wonder if we can get a chart of model years having this issue.
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