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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone here have any information or knowledge on how to install these?

Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Hood Musical instrument accessory

Motor vehicle Light Automotive lighting Font Line


The "guide" isn't accurate to what you actually receive in the box. Also, my 2022 is completely LED in the front, so I don't have a halogen socket as is feature here. Observe:

Circuit component Automotive lighting Cable Passive circuit component Wire

Automotive lighting Audio equipment Circuit component Cable Jewellery


What gets plugged into what? I tried directly plugging into the LED port of the turn signal, which worked, but since I didn't chain in the relay it just flashed on/off very fast. I'm missing a critical step but I'm not sure what. Looked for a tutorial online but couldn't find one.

Why do these aftermarket companies provide such horrible instructions? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I'm not following. Why didn't you plug in the relay harness inline with the new signals and the factory harness?

The rapid flashing tells me the car's electronics/electrical system is expecting a higher load on the end of that circuit. If the included relay harness doesn't work out, you can try measuring the resistance/load of the factory signal with a volt/ohm meter. Then measure out what the resistance/load is for the aftermarket units you have. The differential is what you'll need to put in for a load resister. You will have to wire the load resister as a bridge between the hot and neutral wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not following. Why didn't you plug in the relay harness inline with the new signals and the factory harness?

The rapid flashing tells me the car's electronics/electrical system is expecting a higher load on the end of that circuit. If the included relay harness doesn't work out, you can try measuring the resistance/load of the factory signal with a volt/ohm meter. Then measure out what the resistance/load is for the aftermarket units you have. The differential is what you'll need to put in for a load resister. You will have to wire the load resister as a bridge between the hot and neutral wires.
I'm not following you not following me, yikes!

I'm afraid on this one we're speaking a different language. You're going to have to speak to me like a child for this one (if you want) in order to help make the supplied schematic click in my head. Right now, I'm not seeing it or I'm overlooking something.

See attached photos to show you what I'm looking at.

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Gadget Automotive design Motor vehicle Hood Auto part

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I think after contemplating it more I have to retrofit this in place of the halogen connector, right?

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Or this might even be better:
Light Audio equipment Gadget Amber Automotive lighting


The eBay listing says this product is for all model years of the C-HR. Cleary that is not true. 2022 switched over to full LED in the front. This product seems like it can be easily adapted, however.

Tell me if I'm heading down the wrong path of thinking here?
 

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Welcome to the aftermarket. Even well known reputable companies have had problems with items that are "bolt on". Reminds me of the headaches I had to go through with installing a set of Crane 1.6 ratio roller rockers into the 3.1L V6 engine in my old 94 Z24. Crane said the rockers were straight bolt on/drop ins. Wrong. The lower intake manifold had to be machined/ground down in spots to provide clearance. The valve covers had to be modified to also provide clearance which meant removing the baffles that are part of the PCV system and then machining down the aluminum channels cast into the valve cover for air to be circulated through the PCV system. Finally, a metal baffle had to be welded over the opening for the PCV valve. All of this was for a "bolt on" part(s). I would be highly suspicious of any fitment claims from a no name brand overseas company.

With that said, the reason why the rapid flashing is happening as I explained above is because the turn signal circuit is expecting a higher electrical load/resistance that would be there in the stock setup. Looking at the pics for the aftermarket parts you have and because it's intended for the incandescent bulb setup in the older C-HR headlights, that pigtail with the gold box is probably a load resister added in to present the proper load to the turn signal circuit to mimic the stock incandescent bulb; since LEDs have a lower Ohm/resistance value than incandescent bulbs. My guess is further bolstered by the cooling fins on the exterior of that gold box. I don't know if the turn signal circuit will function properly in your car if it's presented with a higher than designed resistance. You'll have to give it a try. To do this as you're guessing, you'll have to splice in the appropriate factory connectors to the end of that pig tail to make it work. If you want to do it right, you'll need to use a volt ohm meter to measure the resistance of your factory LED turn signals. Then you need to do the same measurement of these aftermarket LED signals. I'm betting the aftermarket LEDs will come in with a smaller Ohm reading than the factory ones. You would then subtract the Ohm reading of the aftermarket signal from the factory signal. That difference number is the size load resister you need to wire as a bridge between the positive and negative wires for the turn signals.

If what I'm describing above is still not clear for you, I'd highly recommend you have a customization shop near you do the install work. Less aggravation and zero chance of screwing anything up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Welcome to the aftermarket. Even well known reputable companies have had problems with items that are "bolt on". Reminds me of the headaches I had to go through with installing a set of Crane 1.6 ratio roller rockers into the 3.1L V6 engine in my old 94 Z24. Crane said the rockers were straight bolt on/drop ins. Wrong. The lower intake manifold had to be machined/ground down in spots to provide clearance. The valve covers had to be modified to also provide clearance which meant removing the baffles that are part of the PCV system and then machining down the aluminum channels cast into the valve cover for air to be circulated through the PCV system. Finally, a metal baffle had to be welded over the opening for the PCV valve. All of this was for a "bolt on" part(s). I would be highly suspicious of any fitment claims from a no name brand overseas company.

With that said, the reason why the rapid flashing is happening as I explained above is because the turn signal circuit is expecting a higher electrical load/resistance that would be there in the stock setup. Looking at the pics for the aftermarket parts you have and because it's intended for the incandescent bulb setup in the older C-HR headlights, that pigtail with the gold box is probably a load resister added in to present the proper load to the turn signal circuit to mimic the stock incandescent bulb; since LEDs have a lower Ohm/resistance value than incandescent bulbs. My guess is further bolstered by the cooling fins on the exterior of that gold box. I don't know if the turn signal circuit will function properly in your car if it's presented with a higher than designed resistance. You'll have to give it a try. To do this as you're guessing, you'll have to splice in the appropriate factory connectors to the end of that pig tail to make it work. If you want to do it right, you'll need to use a volt ohm meter to measure the resistance of your factory LED turn signals. Then you need to do the same measurement of these aftermarket LED signals. I'm betting the aftermarket LEDs will come in with a smaller Ohm reading than the factory ones. You would then subtract the Ohm reading of the aftermarket signal from the factory signal. That difference number is the size load resister you need to wire as a bridge between the positive and negative wires for the turn signals.

If what I'm describing above is still not clear for you, I'd highly recommend you have a customization shop near you do the install work. Less aggravation and zero chance of screwing anything up.
Crystal clear, and I appreciate you taking the time to explain it. It just took me a second for it to click. The whole time I'm thinking these were "compatible" with my 2022, so I couldn't understand where I'd plug in a terminal (incandescent in this case) that I don't have. Now that I've worked it out, I think I can get these to work with the aforementioned hack.

It will all come down to load on the resistor as you say. I'm going to use their own supplied resistor, splicing my own LED connector which I already bought off Amazon. I actually bought both of the connectors I posted. Fairly inexpensive. And if that doesn't work, find a resistor that will.

I HATE blinky lights, it's sooooooo 60's. It's 2023 almost. My lights better be woke.

I'm many questionable things in life but defeatist is not one of them.

I shall report back. Hopefully I don't blow something up before that.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
To update the thread these particular LED lights DO NOT work with the 2022 model. They're listed as 18-21, so consider my experiment a failure specifically for 2022. Unfortumately I've found that in terms of aftermarket it's hit or miss for the 22 models. I don't suspect there will be any companies that will invest in producing am parts specifically for the 22 North American models.

I actually converted the harness/resistor/relay with no issues highlighted in the evolution of this thread. The main issue is the mounting hardware is too big to seat into the OEM light socket. It would appear the 2022 C-HR headlight redesign is more involved than simply moving to full LED. It is full LED, but as such Toyota changed the socket type and size as well.

Back they go for a refund!

OEM 2022
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Aftermarket 18-21

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