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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! Once again, issues have arisen on my 2018 xls. "check engine", "epb malfunction", "pre-collision system malfunction" and "lane departure alert malfunction" are the errors indicated on the dash.

OBD reading states;
============1==============
P219A
Raw code: 219A
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Permanent
OBDII: Mixture control, bank 1 - value out of range
============2==============
P219A
Raw code: 219A
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Mixture control, bank 1 - value out of range
============3==============
P219A
Raw code: 219A
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Mixture control, bank 1 - value out of range

Anyone have any clues? Any idea how much it's gonna cost me to get THIS fixed? Toyota service can't see me for another week... Is it safe to drive?
This thing being in the shop all the time is really, really getting old.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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I would check the simple things. With all these warning lights, I would make sure your alternator and battery are up to snuff. Low voltage has created weird electronic gremlins. I experienced them in the past with my old Cavalier Z24. Warning indicators lit up on the dash. Did some checking and found out the alternator was shot.

Barring that simple check. There are a few things that the P219A could be based on my online research. It could be a fuel pressure problem. It could be a bad injector. It could be a bad A/F sensor. And the worst possibility, a problem with the cylinder head. There was a TSB Toyota had issued for Corolla/Matrix models around the 2012 era which called for checking to see if there were other codes present. I think it was a misfire code. And if the P219A was the only code, to do a cylinder compression check. If that test failed, the cylinder head needed to be replaced. From what I can tell from someone that had this problem on the Toyota Nation forum, it centered around the exhaust valves. One of the engines affected by this problem was the 2ZR-FAE engine. I don't know if the 3ZR-FAE is just a bigger version of the 2ZR in terms of displacement but using the same head. I would think Toyota would have figured out a fix and implemented into the production lines by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx Zx10guy! Good information. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined at all. I guess it'll just sit until I can get it into the dealership. Hopefully it's just a simple fix and not something like a cylinder head. If so, this thing is gonna get traded in on a different brand. The troubles just aren't worth the appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just recd a call from the dealership stating that the air/fuel sensor needs to be replaced (hence the P219A error). They also told me that "there were a couple of burnt wires on the back of the can bus". He suggested that the modifications I had made 2 years ago to the electrical system (installing directed electronics auto start, and a additional usb/cigarette lighter port) may have something to do with it.
Not sure what he's talking about with the "burnt wires". All electrical circuits certainly seemed fine before being towed (and AFTER the OBD error) to the dealership for this problem. I checked everything that I had done anticipating something like this. At this moment, as it sits in the shop 30 miles away, I can locate it via GPS thru the remote start system. Not sure how a couple of wires could be burnt yet, the electrical all still works. Something seems off here...
Thoughts?
 

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Looks like I nailed it with the A/F sensor.

With regards to the burnt wires, the service advisor is full of himself. There's no way adding in any accessories to the electrical system would cause an overload to the Can Bus system. You'd have bigger issues if that were the case. If you're not aware, the Can Bus is the internal network for communication between sensors and the various control modules.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You did indeed nail it zx10guy! Info is greatly appreciated! Hopefully the "burnt wires" won't be an issue (I haven't heard back from the dealership for a repair cost... Maybe they forgot about it or, it wasn't really an issue to begin with) and the a/f sensor is covered by warranty.
I will update when more is known.
Thank you!
 

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You're welcome.

Since you're still under the manufacturer's warranty, I'd stand firm that any "burnt" wires be covered under warranty. If they try blaming the stuff you did, ask them to prove it. If you can't get any satisfaction there, I'd go straight to Toyota NA and file a complaint.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, apparently the "burnt wire" issue corrected itself. They are indeed replacing the a/f sensor at the tune of $320 or something along those lines. Isn't the sensor part of emissions control? Shouldn't it be covered under warranty? Any help would be greatly appreciate. Ty!
 

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So you're out of warranty? I thought the powertrain warranty is 5 years 60,000 miles. Are you over the limit on miles?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nope. 3 years old and 40,000 miles. So you think that it should be covered under power train (which, is indeed, 5yrs/60k)? I'm not very mechanically savvy...
 

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I have to look at the verbiage of the warranty terms as to exclusions. But I would make a case that it should be covered. At a minimum, I would think the dealer would offer up a good will option where they pick up the part and you pay the labor or vice versa. I haven't looked for the A/F sensor in the car, but it shouldn't be that difficult to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ty zxguy. I scoured thru the warranty and it's not covered under the emissions policy and I'm out of the basic warranty period where it would have been covered. No big deal... Could've been much worse!
 

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I would think this is under the 5 year 60,000 power train warranty which is not the same as the emissions warranty. I don't know how handy you are but replacing the A/F sensor is literally the same as replacing a spark plug. You just need a oxygen sensor type socket that has a cut along the side to allow the wiring harness to poke through. And then you just unscrew the A/F sensor with the socket/ratchet. Takes all of a few minutes.
 
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