[zx10guy]

For those who are looking to do their own oil change just after the break in period of the motor or later on, there seems to be some confusion on what oil filter to use on the 2.0L 4.

I did some research before crawling under the car to see if the 2.0L in my 2019 is the canister style or the cartridge style/filter element only. Found a video where a mechanic Stateside did an oil change on a 2018. He first thought the filter was canister style but found out it was cartridge style. With this info, I went into my local Advance Auto and picked up 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and a Purolator Boss Oil filter PBL16311. Thinking I had everything I needed I head back and proceed to jack up the car and get underneath.

The access panel and where the drain plug and oil filter is is on the passenger side of the car. Once I opened up the panel, to my surprise, the oil filter was a canister style and not one requiring a cap tool to twist off the cartridge housing. Ok. Great. So I don't have to worry if the Toyota cartridge housing tool I already have would work on this engine or not. Back to Advance Auto to exchange the PBL16311 with a PBL14476.

Other than the oil filter issue, everything else was easy. I found out I could use the cartridge housing tool I already have to tighten the oil filter down and most probably remove it. I only decided to try the tool on the new filter after I had gotten the factory filter off with a set of big channel locks; still looking for my oil filter tool which would have been better for this which I had misplaced some where.

So not sure if Toyota decided to do a change from model year 2018 to 2019 with the oil filter. Or there is something else going on with the video I found on Youtube where the guy did indeed had a car with the cartridge style filter.

Oh and if anyone is wondering why I changed the oil myself since I do have 2 years/25,000 miles of Toyota care, I wanted to get the break in oil out of the engine with any possible metal shavings/burrs. The car had about 1700 miles when I did the oil change.

 

[Tobias227]

Now I'm wondering if this was changed solely for the 2019 model or if the C-HR has always had that oil canister setup. Since you did this change early is there anything that can be done to reset the oil life meter? Did you notice any savings in the factory oil once you had it removed?

 

[zx10guy]

I seem to recall seeing in the owner's manual some where about how to reset the oil life meter. For this oil change, I'm not going do the reset. I still want to follow the normal schedule which means the first dealer oil change under Toyota Care is going to be a bit early.

As far as the mystery about whether the 2.0L C-HRs have always had the canister oil filters, I don't know. I would need someone with a 2018 to jack up their car and take a look. The video I found on Youtube by this mechanic doing an oil change on a 2018 indicates the 2018s have the filter element type. Which is why I thought I had that filter type until I got under the car.

What do you mean by savings in the factory oil? Or do you mean shavings?

 

[SiR]

I heard its sort of pointless to look for those shavings and come to think about it I can't remember when last it became a problem for someone.

 

[zx10guy]

I did go back and looked at what was left from the slow draining of the old oil filter. I did some flecks but not sure if it is some dirt/dust. It's hard to tell. I can say it's definitely not real bad compared to another car I had a lubrication issue. That car when I drained the oil you could tell immediately there was metal in the oil. I think to know a bit more conclusively is to cut open the old oil filter and see what's trapped in there.

 

[marthawilliam]

I heard its sort of pointless to look for those shavings and come to think about it I can't remember when last it became a problem for someone.

 

[zx10guy]

That's correct. I did have a situation with one of my vehicles where it was obvious there were metal flakes in the oil. It was on my dad's old 87 Celebrity with the 4 cylinder Iron Duke. I was hoping for the best when I started seeing the low oil pressure warning light flickering off and on. Did an oil change and the oil was shimmering. The motor had a lot of miles on it and I kept driving the car till the motor finally gave up. Fortunately, the motor quit right when I pulled up to my house.

I'm pretty sure I know what the issue is with the motor. The motor had an issue with the cam gear as the valve train is gear driven. GM used some sort of weird paper/composite gear which the teeth eventually stripped off. The interesting thing is the crank gear was metal. I wanted to see if I can save some money and effort by pulling the old cam gear out without pulling the motor. A friend helped me do the work and it was a royal pain to get the cam gear off. I think all the pulling we did to remove the cam gear caused damage to the oil pump drive shaft at the back of the cam and caused the lubrication issues.

Anyways, I just feel better doing a quick oil change after the break in period to make sure there are no issues. I guess the only real way to know for sure what is going on is to send the oil off to get an analysis on it.