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Discussion Starter #1
My name is Chad.

I used to compete in Car Audio Competitions.

I am from South Florida.

I am here looking for information on upgrading the head unit of my 2018 C-HR to a Kenwood DDX9905S.

I will be adding a "small" stereo to my vehicle, with companies I have never worked with before (they asked me if I was interested)... but not competing (my wife would kill me). :)
 

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Welcome to the forum Chad, congrats on the C-HR. There are plenty of threads dedicated to swapping out the stock head unit, so I'm sure you'll find all the suggestions you need there. What made you decide on the C-HR with such a background in performance audio?
 

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Welcome Chad! I think Meedo replaced their head unit for an aftermarket one, so maybe they'll be a good source for wiring and such.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What made you decide on the C-HR with such a background in performance audio?
I was in a Tundra for the last 3 years coupled with a new born (4 months old)... So, I decided to downgrade for cost and monthly payment reasons 🙂.

I am trying to have a good sounding car, while staying out if the spotlight of the car audio world. For both my sanity, and the "Happy wife, Happy life" saying.
 

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I was in a Tundra for the last 3 years coupled with a new born (4 months old)... So, I decided to downgrade for cost and monthly payment reasons 🙂.

I am trying to have a good sounding car, while staying out if the spotlight of the car audio world. For both my sanity, and the "Happy wife, Happy life" saying.
Awh man. If you don't mind opening a Q/A thread, or make an amateur rule of thumb thing with modding our CHRs.... or at least we hope to see how you are doing yours!


I was thinking of adding these eventually, at least on the door panels and maybe under the seat/floor area.

- Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening

- Noico WP 150 mil 36 sqft car waterproof insulation heat and cool liner, Closed Cell PE Foam CCF Self-adhesive Sound Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener)

Are these worth it at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awh man. If you don't mind opening a Q/A thread, or make an amateur rule of thumb thing with modding our CHRs.... or at least we hope to see how you are doing yours!


I was thinking of adding these eventually, at least on the door panels and maybe under the seat/floor area.

- Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening

- Noico WP 150 mil 36 sqft car waterproof insulation heat and cool liner, Closed Cell PE Foam CCF Self-adhesive Sound Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener)

Are these worth it at all?
In my opinion, any sound deadening is worth it. The thicker you use on the first application, the less of a need for a 2nd application.

Back when I built my first SPL (Sound Pressure Level / Loudness) truck - Dodge Dakota, Dynamat was really the only game in town. I used to have to use 2 to 3 layers of it to make it really worth a ****.

Now, you have companies all over the place creating thicker material, which works great!!

I had read a post on here about it helping with heat and cooling. Never really heard that before, but, just reading some quick information about the specific "heat and cool" liner, it make sense!


-=-=-

My recommendation for the C-HR (only having mine for 2 weeks and not spending a lot of time in it yet) the key parts for application to minimize road noise are the floor boards and roof.

My recommendation for ANY CAR for applications to have better sound, is:

1) seal the door completely, add the sound deadener to the outside door skins, the inside door skin and seal any holes in the doors!!! The less amount of air you allow the leak out of the doors, the better sound you're going to achieve from the speaker.
2) apply as much as you can on the roof.
3) apply as much as you can from the bottom of the dash board, following down to the floor board, under the seats and back to the trunk ( Boot for my UK friends - :) )
3) if you're going go put Subwoofers in the back, add the sound deadener to the hatch, and the entire trunk/boot area - again following to principle of the doors, the less air that leaks, the better sound and more efficiency you'll get from your speakers!!

... and a very important thing I learned from Dynamat that a lot of people mis-understand... Dyanmat, and sound deadener in general, does NOT stop the vibration... it simply changes the frequency of the vibration so you can not hear it....
 
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Thanks for the helpful info. There are multitudes of companies that does it now, as you said, so it's nice to have options.

AFAIK, the reason we do 2 layer of different material is that the first one is the butyl that absorbs and change the frequency. Then the 2nd layer is typically some kind of foam with air-bubbles of sort to provide physical barrier and extra mass?

Anyhow. I'll aim to do this in the next couple of months.
 
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